Penal Tower Rock Climbing is best for sport, and trad routes.
A great place if you climb:
5.10c/d
6b+
21.0
VII+
21.0
E3 5b
Best if you climb at least:
5.12b
7b
26.0
VIII+
26.0
E5 6b
The average route length is:
40 feet long
A bad place for slab climbing
A bad place for chimney climbing
A bad place for overhang climbing